Montag, Mai 21, 2007

SHF #31: Neutral Territory - shades of white

This time Sugar High Friday has a really special theme - everything in white shades. I thought back and forth. I thought about
  • Meringues and pavlovas, maybe with lemon curd or a sabayon
  • Mascarpone mousse
  • Honey-yoghurt ice cream
  • Lime-vanilla ice cream
  • Banana-sago in coconut milk
  • Banana coconut custard parcels
  • Banana-sticky rice rolls
  • Floating Island in lemon or vanilla custard
  • Yoghurt ice cream in yoghurt with additions like bananas, lychees, white peaches, apples, pears, longans, white fungus, lotus seeds, rambutans
  • Panna cotta
  • Custards, puddings
  • Rice or semolina pudding with vanilla custard
  • Coconut ice cream with banana or peach sauce
  • Choux pastry covered white chocolate filled with crème chantilly and white fruits as cream puffs
  • Grand Marnier soufflé with white peach-vanilla coulis
  • Poached white pears in Marsala-sabayon with tiny lemon curd-meringues
  • Cinnamon maccarons-sandwiches with cinnamon ice cream and cherry-Marascino sabayon
  • Yoghurt ice-cream coated with toasted coconut on yoghurt-sabayon with bananas
  • ...
something like that. There are so many possibilities to creat something for this 31th SHF which will be hosted by Seven Spoons

Finally I decided to make:

"C and C as sweet as can be"

Cinnamon-walnut maccaron-sandwiches with cinnamon ice-cream and cherry coulis in Maraschino sabayon

I've never made maccarons before. But every christmas time I bake cinnamon stars/Zimtsterne, "Meringue kisses"/Baiserbusserl and something similar to maccarons Walnussmakronen. And even if I've read about so many difficulties of making maccarons, I not only decided to make some for this event. No, I even substituted the regular almond meal with walnuts. After 2½ years in the Tropics I know already a lot about the diffuculties of baking anything with stiff egg whites. It is not only the high temperature here in Singapore which makes you troubles, it's the high humidity. And you have to adjust the recipe and bakdrying time to this conditions. First of all I have to recommend you not to bake that kind of stuff during rain. And best use previously frozen egg whites and always use egg whites at room temperature. If you're confronted with high humidity increase the drying time at a lowered temperature. And freeze the batter for cinnamon stars before cutting them in stars.
I think I succeeded with my way to make these maccarons and I hope you'll agree. Really challenging was only to make a picture of that dish. Usually normal-sized ice cream balls will melt within a few minutes here, but the small ice cream layers between the maccarons just don't wanted to let me take more than 8 pictures. And after I've checked them at my laptop the sun already started to set and the photographs I could have taken then would not have been better than this:

The given amounts in my recipes are enough for 45 to 50 maccarons

Ingredients for the cinnamon-ice cream:

110 gcaster/fine sugar
20 gcinnamon quills
6egg yolks (use the remaining egg whites for the maccarons or any other recipe calling for egg whites - if you freeze them they will be easier to beat)
100 mlheavy/whippening cream


Place the cinnamon quills in a plastic bag and bruise them with a steak hammer.
Over a baine marie/double boiler whisk the milk and about 2/3 of the sugar together over boiling water. Add the cinnamon and stir occasionaly. Meanwhile wisk the egg yolks together with the remaining sugar until the sugar dissolves. When the milk is almost boiling reduce the heat to a medium high, whisk in the egg yolks mixture. Cook over simmering water and whisk constantly until the mixture starts to thicken as for a custard sauce. Remove from the heat and place in an ice bath, stirring occasionaly, otherwise a skin will form on the surface. When cooled pass through a fine sieve or better through a cheesecloth/muslin. Stir in the cream and churn the cool mixture according to the manufacturers instructions of your ice cream maker.
Spread the ice cream evenly out in a freezer proof 25 x 30 cm container or about 1 cm thick with a angled spatula. Freeze until firm.

Ingredients for the cinnamon-maccarons:

150 gwalnuts, shelled
300 gicing/powder sugar
1½ tspcinnamon powder
150 geggwhite (from 5 to 6 eggs)
45 gcaster/fine sugar
1lemon rind (optional)


Preheat the oven to 160 °C.
Grind the walnuts in a food processor until fine powdered. Add the icing sugar, cinnamon and lemon rind (if using). Turn your machine on until the ingredients are well combined.
Start whisking the egg whites slowly and increase the spead gradually. Whisk until soft peaks form. Gradually add the caster sugar still whisking on a high speed until the egg white is firm. Carefully fold in the nut mixture until well combined.
Using a piping bag with a plain 0,7 to 1 cm noozle pipe round shapes in 1,5 cm diameter on a baking sheet layed out with parchment paper.
Usually you dry the maccarons for 5 to 7 minutes in the oven. Let them cool for about 10 minutes on the baking sheet. And transfer them with the parchment paper on a wired rack.
I have to dry them in the oven for 10 minutes at 170 °C and for 15 minutes with 100 °C. Then I left them in the oven with just the ventilator on for another 20 minutes and let them cool together with my oven. It may be different if you have an airconditioned kitchen especially with a dehumidifier function.
If you don't want to have some peaks from piping on top of your maccarons even out the surface with a wet finger before baking.

Ingredients for the Maraschino-Sabayon:

80 mlMarschino liqueur
40 mlwater
3egg yolks (use the remaining egg whites for a recipe calling for them - you will find some examples above - if you freeze them they will be easier to beat)
35 gfine/caster sugar


Over a double boiler/bain marie heat the liqueur and water gently. Whisk in the egg yolks and still whisking add the sugar. Beat for about 10 minutes until the mixture is light and fluffy.
Place the bowl with the egg mixture in an ice bath and continue whisking until cooled. Serve as soon as possible.

Ingredients for the cherry-coulis:

500 gsour cherries
5 Tbspicing/powdered sugar


Wash and pit the cherries. Purée them to a liquid together with the sugar in a blender/mixer. Strain them through a fine sieve or a food mill with a fine sieve attachment. And cook the mixture over low-medium heat until thickend almost to a syrup.

Final assembly:

Stencil out the ice- cream with a cookie cutter in the size of your maccarons. Place one ice-cream layer between two maccarons. Serve with the sabayon aside and add some cherry coulis. If you want to sieve some cinnamon over the dessert.

You can make the cinnamon ice cream with each of your vanilla ice cream recipe. Like that rich-vanilla ice cream recipe I've posted and which was very creamy. Simply substitude the vanilla with cinnamon. Or vary with the amount of milk and cream.

I think a cinnamon ice cream will be as good served with baked apple and walnuts. In chilled strong coffee with the cinnamon maccarons aside. Serve the cinnamon ice cream to accompany a plum tart. Or just with a cherry coulis. And a possibility to make only the maccarons will be to put them together with some walnut paste in between (simply substitude the syrup with 1 tablespoon nut liqueur, whisky or espresso added to achieve a smooth paste). Or some cherry or coffee cream.

 sugar high friday